The Cultural and Culinary Traditions of Dried Cod/Stockfish

Highly skilled practitioners

Coastal fishermen are the frontline producers and the cornerstone of quality stockfish production. They catch the cod near the coast, following sustainable practices and quotas, and handle the fish according to quality regulations set by fisheries authorities and food safety agencies. Without these coastal fishermen, their small boats, proper fish handling, and timely deliveries to processing plants, it would be difficult to produce high-quality stockfish outdoors. There are also a few coastal fishermen or home producers in remote areas, who dry their own stockfish for resale, but their numbers are sadly dwindling in coastal Norway.
The next step in the lyefish process belongs to the professionals found in the receiving and processing plants, which are often also stockfish producers. The cod that will be dried outdoors must be quickly washed, bound together two and two, and then expertly hung on drying racks (hjell). Proper drying must be monitored over time, making sure the fish hangs freely and correctly to avoid issues that could affect quality. After-drying now occurs indoors in climate-controlled storage facilities instead of in old drying lofts and sea houses.
Stockfish producers and their employees are responsible for overseeing the drying process in compliance with the quality requirements of the Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) designation for stockfish from Lofoten. They closely monitor the weather and natural influences during the outdoor drying draws on a significant amount of traditional knowledge. It is known that outdoor drying has become challenging in our warmer climate, and indoor drying, which is more common in Iceland, is now being tested in Norway as well. High energy prices have, however, limited its development. Therefore, UNESCO recognition of stockfish traditions, based on the PGI designation could strengthen the role of the traditional historic outdoor drying on wooden racks (hjeller).
The vrakere/graders/quality controllers are the next link in the handmade production process of the air dried stockfish. Their task is to ensure the specific quality of all finished stockfish that are to be exported to countries with culinary stockfish traditions. The graders sort each individual fish meant for export into one of three categories: prima, sekunda, or Tipo B quality, based on sensory criteria such as smell, appearance, colour, length, etc., all according to specific quality regulations.
The next stage, the processing of stockfish as rehydrated or lye treated stockfish product for consumers, restaurants, etc., is carried out by skilled workers in large seafood companies or in smaller, specialized artisanal production companies or at fish shops. All these are normally to be found near the customers. Competence in handling and preparing stockfish still exists, but innovation in industrial production is changing both the craftsmanship and the final product, which is often mechanically processed and ending up being skinless and boneless.
In the past, it was more common to rehydrate and lye-treat the fish at home or in restaurants. This process requires time and space for soaking and lye treatment, which is seen as challenging today. Therefore, few restaurants or individuals practice the art of lye treatment, and of passing it on to the next generation. It is the chefs and cooks who now evaluate what is the best industrial product for the culinary uses of the lyefish delivered by seafood companies. Chefs also listen to their guests, so the stockfish that is commonly recognised in texture and taste will usually be the most popular to eat and being promoted. There seems, however, to be a general consumer trend back to prefer a much firmer lyefish today.
Stockfish traditions are also of great cultural significance to society. Visual artists, writers, and history communicators are a wide group of highly skilled actors who draw on stockfish stories and traditions within their unique creative fields. Stockfish is well integrated into our coastal culture, values and memories, and numerous museums across the country use all or parts of stockfish traditions in their exhibitions and education. We even have a unique stockfish museum at Å in Lofoten. Stockfish has also been used innovatively as a symbol of something uniquely and distinctly Norwegian. Stockfish history is well represented in books, music, visual arts, sculptures, and culinary art. The cultural diversity and forms of expression related to stockfish are closely linked to authentic production, traditional craftsmanship evaluation, local preparation processes, and food culture.
In the cultural field, numerous artists create art, share knowledge and unique expressions related to stockfish. Art about stockfish dates back in time, initially tied to religion and bible expressions in church art, or as trade symbols for the Hanse in Bergen or Lubeck. Later, artistic and cultural expressions developed more freely and extensively as long as there was a wish and need to express this part of our coastal culture. Many painters, sculptors, writers, and musicians have used or continue to use stockfish as a motif or as creative elements in their craft and art. Stockfish history and traditions have a significant influence and serve as great inspiration for performers in the culture sector.

Knowledge transfer

Coastal fishing is learned through practical experience doing fishing on boats, by tacit and direct transfer of knowledge from fishermen, - or through training and education at fishery colleges.
Fishing industry workers learn outdoor drying and how to monitor the drying process through in-house training and practical application and use of traditional knowledge passed down from older workers.
The vraking/grading of stockfish is based on the transfer of traditional knowledge through practical work in the stockfish industry. Grader training has shifted from a more formal apprenticeship to now relying on sufficient and relevant in-house practice.
Rehydrating and luting stockfish is done by skilled workers in the seafood industry or at speciality stores and fish shops. Here, knowledge about the treatment of stockfish is transferred from knowledge bearers to new practitioners of the trade. However, much of the skilled work is in the process of being taken over by new technology and mechanical processing of stockfish and Lyefish. The end product is changing from whole round stockfish to the production and preparation of skinless and boneless dried cod fillets.
Cooking stockfish gently is an important cultural and culinary tradition. Lyefish meals are prepared both at home and in restaurants, while dishes based on rehydrated frozen stockfish are mostly prepared at restaurants. Rehydrated stockfish is now used innovatively by chefs, who share knowledge through collaboration and exchange of culinary practices among food professionals. Lyefish meals are usually very traditional and site-specific in choice of ingredients. Chefs in different regions have a special responsibility for the choice of lyefish product and for the location-specific ingredients that go with the meal. Knowledge is transferred between generations through families, friends and restaurant chefs. A lyefish meal at home is frequently an event based on culinary heritage passed down from previous generations; with the type of lye fish used, accompaniments, and preparation methods linked to coastal origins of the family. Knowledge transfer for the use of local stockfish and lyefish traditions also takes place at educational institutions, industry associations, social clubs, and within the food industry itself.
For the cultural sector, stories about stockfish represent an important transfer of knowledge integrated with history and culinary heritage. There are various actors in social clubs, museums, and guides who share information about stockfish and its many culinary uses. This knowledge is either documented as stories or passed down in dialogue with older informants to younger communicators. Stories about stockfish and lyefish are important knowledge for home cooks, restaurant owners, guides and tourists. The history of the specific quality stockfish in the dish being served, is something many expect to experience and to learn, often via the medium of storytelling which itself is a cherished tradition for preserving, sharing and transferring knowledge.
Art and cultural activities are closely integrated with knowledge transfer of stockfish and the related food culture. They often share experiences giving stockfish a modern expression, in the arts, music, and storytelling or in the setting of the meal and the social expectations Artists and cultural workers inspire each other, learn from each other, or from experiences where they can express themselves using stockfish, or from the actual meal itself and its social context.

Historical background

The oldest documented food tradition involving the use of stockfish in Norway, can be found in Pietro Querini's historical account. He is known for being shipwrecked at Røst in northern Norway during the winter of 1432, and when returning to Venize he wrote a report of his travel. Querini described how stockfish was crushed or broken into pieces, smeared with butter, herbs and eaten in a manner similar to how we eat bread today. This tradition is not widely known among the general population, but is often practiced in places in Northern Norway where stockfish is a common and easily accessible product. In recent years, more stockfish snacks have appeared on the market in Norway, both made from dried cod and haddock fillets, but most of it is in fact imported from Iceland.
In the past, it was common to rehydrate stockfish, and today, it has become more popular again to use water-soaked stockfish in cooking. Pre-soaked frozen stockfish can now be purchased in some grocery stores, eliminating the need for the time-consuming water-soaking and filleting process. Some people have experience at softening stockfish by pounding it gently with a hammer to reduce rehydration time, but this tradition is not widely known. Ideally, a wooden club is used, and according to old cookbooks, the fish should be carefully pounded for up to an hour. This causes the fish meat to crack, allowing water to penetrate more easily and thus speeding up the soaking process. Some producers sell mechanically pounded stockfish pieces in buckets, which reduces rehydration time to as little as 5 days.
The main challenge with rehydrated stockfish is its very short shelf life. Even when stored at a temperature of 2-4°C, the durability can be as short as a couple of days. Therefore, stockfish must be consumed shortly after rehydration, and there are numerous Norwegian recipes for using the fish, from stews to stockfish cakes for frying.
The short durability of rehydrated stockfish led to a need for preserving the prepared fish product. This is where the addition of lye (lut) has its historical and natural justification in Norway. If rehydration is combined with the use of strong lye and some lime, the longevity increases dramatically, from 2 days to 14 days. Vacuum-packed Lyefish/lyefish can typically last up to 8 weeks in a regular refrigerated display. However, the taste and flavour of the stockfish changes significantly with lye treatment.
The traditional potash lye process usually takes 11 days. In earlier times, in some places, the stockfish was placed in a closed basket attached to the riverbank, both before and after lye treatment, to soak and rinse the fish. This eliminated the need to change the water daily. Preserving the traditional knowledge of lye treatment at home, through experience, is important. There is no exact procedure because soaking time, lye strength, and time in the lye can vary widely depending on the size and type of stockfish, its' quality, temperature, and most importantly, whether one desires a firm or a softer, gelatinous Lyefish.
In older times, Norwegians ate stockfish regularly during the winter and early spring. In Catholic times, lyefish was served during Advent until the first day of Christmas, and throughout the period from Christmas to Easter, including the fasting period until and including Easter Sunday when eating meat was not allowed. Today, Norwegians consume Lyefish mostly in the autumn and during the time leading up to Christmas. What do we know about the origin of this unique Norwegian food tradition? Many famous authors and food culture researchers have made lyefish into something mysterious and inexplicable. We've been told legends of Vikings creating the first lyefish at a campfire, stories of fires in fish drying racks after lightning strikes, where a piece of stockfish fell into an ash-filled puddle and emerged as lyefish after a few rainy days, like a phoenix, ready to be eaten to everyone's delight and blessing.
Perhaps the Norwegian "strong lye" lyefisk has a simpler origin, from the unappetizing "makkfisk" (fish infested with fly larvae), an unwanted but well-known "unlucky" product in our coastal cultural history. Drying fish was not easy everywhere, in changing times when a mild climate and fly maggots were sometimes hard to avoid. Makkfisk had partly to be shared with the livestock and partly to be washed and cleaned before it could be eaten by humans, and the only suitable cleaning agent was lye made from fireplace ashes. The term "lut" i.e lye, has the same Latin origin "lavare" as the Old Norse word "laugr," meaning to wash. It was therefore entirely natural to use the readily available everyday potash lye to wash the poor-quality stockfish, reduce the odour, and transform it into edible Lyefish. At the same time, "Lyefish" was preserved and ready for use for a slightly longer period. This nationwide Lyefish tradition was strong enough to survive after the Reformation in 1536 and remained more or less unchanged until the beginning of the 20th century.
Today, lyefish is often produced using machines. In some cases, it is dried indoors as fillets, which results in quicker lye treatment, with less smell and fish taste, a whiter colour, and being skinless and boneless. Such industrial processing, however, represents a complete break from a thousand-year-old tradition and a unique craftsmanship built up through the efforts of many generations. Indoor drying therefore poses a potential threat to both the cultural landscapes of Northern Norway and the traditional 1000-year-old outdoor stockfish production.
In historical times, most meals were eaten at home or involved communal feasting with relatives and neighbours at weddings and funerals. The social arena for meals expanded over time with the emergence of restaurants, canteens, social clubs, and societies where traditional foods became important as markers of identity at ethnic and social gatherings. Lyefish experienced a renaissance in the 1980s, inspired by the Norwegian-American communities with their lyefish associations and clubs that set trends for reviving both the cultural and historical aspects of lyefish. The new Norwegian lyefish associations provide a social and culturally inclusive framework for enjoying lyefish, but the actual preparation of the raw material and the meal itself is left to the catering industry and professional chefs. People are thus excluding themselves from the artisanal aspect, both in terms of raw material processing and meal preparation.
The positive aspect of lyefish associations is that they absorb important knowledge about the traditions and the history of lyefish, thus contributing to preserving and developing it as a national cultural and culinary treasure. The situation is much the same at home, as lyefish comes ready for use from the store, without skin and bones and without the rich history or information about the product. Therefore, it is important to keep the history of stockfish and lyefish craftmanship alive, to use it and convey it to all those who are no longer involved in the preparation of the raw material.

Plan for preservation

Dried stockfish, which is based on fish from sustainable resources of migrating Northeast Atlantic cod, primarily caught by coastal fishermen and dried outdoors locally in Northern Norway. This is an environmentally friendly and sustainable form of fishing of the North-East Atlantic cod stock, with only a small percentage (4-5%) of the catch being transformed into stockfish. Sustainable use of aquatic resources is a crucial step towards environmental stewardship. It also positively contributes to the UN's 2030 Agenda and Goal 3, "One Health," aiming to ensure good health and well-being for all humans, regardless of age.
Preserving, promoting, and securing the cultural and culinary heritage of dried fish for future generations will require the involvement of various professionals, fishermen, businesses, organisations, institutions, and authorities. Skills and expertise are transferred throughout the value chain, from catching the fish to preparing and serving a product with a historical and cultural foundation that has shaped the entire nation. There is a significant need to protect dried fish traditions. Traditional outdoor drying of codfish may disappear in Northern Norway due to climate change and changes in the marine environment, which shift the cod migration, fishing and drying areas further northwards or indoors. For example, "råskjær," a stockfish made by splitting the cod in half for faster drying late in the season, was once the most common type of stockfish, but is now becoming an endangered traditional product.
Today, "råskjær" is mostly produced for private use or as a speciality. It requires a lot of manual labour, costs more, and the demand is dwindling, even though it is well-suited for lyefish. The producers of round fish in Lofoten are the ones currently upholding the stockfish traditions and resisting indoor drying and product simplification. Innovation exists in the processing of round fish as fully rehydrated or pre-lyed products for consumers. The Norwegian and EU-approved PGI quality label has become an active tool for the development and marketing of professionally processed and quality-assured outdoor-dried stockfish.
Knowledge about stockfish and Lyefish may disappear with the introduction of new technology. Production processes are being simplified to meet consumer demands for convenience, which has consequences for culinary craftsmanship. There is also a shortage of skilled graders/vrakere of stockfish today, and the industry is looking for ways to reduce the manual quality controlling of stockfish by developing new technology that can replace graders/vrakere. The industrial concentration in the seafood industry is also causing delivery problems. While there were once small businesses that could rehydrate or lye treat stockfish locally, today, they must use frozen finished products sent longer distances from larger or a few specialized companies. There are fewer people in the seafood industry who can process and rehydrate outdoor-dried round stockfish or "råskjær"/splitfish for traditional culinary uses and cooking. Regional markets in Norway are changing because of industrial changes in lyefish production. Simplified boneless and skinless products may challenge traditions if taste and smell are lost and accepted.
It has been expressed from a culinary perspective that if consumers do not learn to make good Lyefish at home, they may lose faith in their ability to do so. And ultimately, no one will want to make or eat it anymore.
A UNESCO ICH-Intangible Cultural Heritage designation for the stockfish traditions could revitalise the traditional, artisanal production and preparation of stockfish. Thus more local rehydration activities and traditional lyefish production could be revived due to increased demand from culinary artisans, restaurants, culinary schools, catering services, and more conscientious consumers. Such a designation would also elevate the status of the graders/vrakere profession and strengthening it. After all it is an artisanal craft that has been cherished and operated since early medieval times.
A common multilateral UNESCO recognition of the stockfish traditions in multiple countries would be of significance for humanity. It may be the best solution for the secure continuation of the comprehensive international knowledge base. In this context, an international working group/consortium has been established among relevant stakeholders, voluntary organisations, institutions, and local authorities in Norway, Italy, and Germany with the aim of preparing a joint multinational UNESCO application. The working group was established during and after an International Cultural Stockfish Heritage conference held from July 14 to 16 in Cittanova, Italy, this year. (For more information, see https://www.facebook.com/AccademiadelloStoccafisso and https://www.facebook.com/slowfoodbergen)
Slow Food Bergen and other partners believe that the key to preserving culinary, cultural, and social values will depend on formal international collaboration. It will strengthen the use of stockfish, its history, and the transfer of knowledge between generations, as well as ensure a good exchange of food culture and traditions between countries. The international working group, therefore, plans to continue its voluntary coordination and participation in the development of a joint UNESCO application, which is expected to be ready by 2024. The international working group, headed by Slow Food Bergen, will submit a proposal for a multinational UNESCO ICH application, which will be submitted through the Arts and Culture Norway, as the state party for signing and forwarding the documents to the UNESCO commission.
Stockfish traditions revolve around food culture, which is of great interest to the public. Slow Food Bergen has promoted lyefish and stockfish traditions successfully, both internationally and locally through various events and food festivals. We will use these initiatives, events and experiences in our outreach efforts. International stockfish traditions have a unique ability to generate interest, attention, and meaningful discussions that can easily be shared. There will be initiated systematic dissemination efforts by means of relevant and regular news updates on social media and public media channels.
Cookery is inherently a communal activity that strengthens social cohesion, generational learning, and capacity building. The nature-based character, history, and culinary use of stockfish can contribute to more social interaction and collaboration across cultures and generations. Our shared vision in international collaboration is that recognition as Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO will strengthen the social and cultural functions associated with traditions and skills related to the preparation of stockfish, thus contributing to (i) positive societal development, (ii) intercultural dialogue, (iii) a sense of belonging to local communities, and (iv) the preservation and continuity of the tradition.
An application will emphasize that belonging to a shared cultural heritage is an important safeguard against discrimination and exclusion. Increased cultural diversity often create fragmented thinking and attitudes. Food unites all of us as human beings. Through the established international partnership, we can create a living heritage model and contribute to robust strategies for preserving intangible cultural heritage and cultural diversity related to our shared stockfish traditions.
The elements (i.e., craftsmanship and traditions) will be promoted in a culturally diverse context based on interwoven regional food identities along trade routes. Processing and preparation of stockfish contributed to a sense of community, provided good nutrition, and protected individual health through the consumption of fish protein and balanced fat compositions. We are aware that our modern lifestyle and the potential negative effects of globalization can endanger the food and distribution system related to stockfish. The knowledge and techniques related to fishing, preservation, food processing, and preparation of stockfish have been passed down through generations and constitute an important part of cultural heritage. Oral traditions, social practices, traditional craftsmanship, art, and festivals convey these elements over historical time and are still vibrant in Norway as well as in other countries in Europe, Africa, and on continents with immigrant communities.
The involved local-based voluntary organizations, especially those from Italy, are particularly engaged in the cultural field related to food traditions, ensuring the involvement of artists and cultural workers in the implementation. The combination of ancient Norwegian and international food traditions and innovation in food culture can revitalise stockfish as an international and national culinary treasure, creating cultural experiences and preservation of cultural heritage.